Purple reins: Philippine export ban casts shadow over UK’s love of ube

As Britain goes mad for yam, shortage of planting material and concerns over control of crop prompts sales halt

In a corner of north London on a weekday morning, Filipino cuisine is thriving: diners at Mama & Sons in Kentish Town are making their choices, and one of the most popular items on the menu is the ube ice-cream sandwich. It’s easy to see the appeal of the light, fluffy bun encasing a purple scoop of ice-cream.

The owner of the cafe, Omar Shah, says ube – a vibrantly purple root vegetable long-beloved in the Philippines – has exploded in popularity in the UK. Just when he thinks it has reached its peak, it becomes “even more popular”. And this year, he says, has been no exception.